Ciutadella, Menorca

With a dramatic and violent history, Ciutadella is worth a visit at the beginning stages of the trek.

An attractive city, it's Menorca's 2nd largest, with Baroque and Gothic architecture and a trading port important in the Middle Ages. Menorca itself is only 22% the size of Mallorca and today has 95,000 residents.

Founded by the Carthaginians in the 4th century, it was governed by the Moors and recaptured by Aragon (eventually becoming part of Spain). There is a 19th c obelisk in the main Plaza d'es Born in memory of the "year of disaster" in 1558 when the 3,452 townspeople were completely overcome by the Turkish Armada and taken as slaves to Constantinople.

Trekking across the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean one feels how its remoteness would have created indefensible towns in earlier times. But today the islands are beautifully maintained with mainly European visitors engaged in the global economy, the remoteness overcome by technology. 

Cala Blanca to Cala en Bosc

A mild and breezy start for the GR223 trek from Ciutadella to Mão, the capital of Menorca. First, some coffee, a fried egg, and bread above the picturesque cove of Santandria. The trail is rocky with twisty limestone under foot. The first woman we ran into said she fell on the uneven rocks bruising her knee. A good reminder to take our time. The mountains of eastern Mallorca were actually visible across the sea, and the turquoise waters beckoned us on to the next bend, and the next...

Mallorca to Menorca GR223 Camí de Cavalls

Took the two-hour ferry from Alcudia to Ciutadella to the easternmost Balaeric island of Menorca to prepare for the next trek along the GR223. Checked out the red & white trail markings which look good. In many areas the trail seems to follow along the horizontal platforms of limestone rock on the coast carved to form tantalizing coves with gorgeous turquoise water.

Cala Tuent to Soller

Today's route today began on a remote beach about an hour's  drive over the mountains north of Soller. Packed with fruit, sandwiches and water, we proceeded to hike 15 km back to town through a wild and beautiful coastal pine trail traversing the hillside. Eventually the trail took us over the mountain into the terraced hillside of an abandoned olive production farm, and again over the next ridge winding our way into Soller. Took the cute local tram to Port de Soller to end a spectacular week of trekking in NW Mallorca.

Cirque de Soller

Scenic hill trails surround both Soller and Port de Soller. Originally a Moorish town later conquered by King Jaume II, Soller became wealthy with citrus and olive production irrigated through stone terraces and mountain water in its mild/ hot climate. Mansions and palaces were built in the 14th to 19th c as well as a church on the grounds of a former mosque. Attacked by pirates in 1561, the church was rebuilt in 17th c and, every May, the village celebrates the women who drove out the pirates armed with kitchen knives and frying pans! We also toured a late 19th c art nouveau mansion called Can Prunera, originally owned by a wealthy fruit exporter and now home to a modern art museum.

Lake Cuber to L'Ofre to Biniaraix

The walk today enters the heart of the Sera de Tramuntana mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage site in its entirety. 20 min by taxi above Port de Soller is peaceful Lake Cuber, a reservoir and sheep grazing area in the mountains and the start of of the walk up to L'Ofre col and also the side route to the peak, 1,093m (3,586 ft) above sea level. An intricate drystone path is carved into the side of the narrow gorge. So tighten up those boots, it's practically 2400 ft down on cobblestones! Gradually the town of Biniaraix, founded by the Moors in the 1st century, and the sea come into view through S'Entret, the entrance, a dramatic parting of rock. Winding the way down again through drystone terraces and the Moors' early but complex irrigation system, we finally arrive at the town with one quaint bar, narrow cobblestone streets, villas with dramatic views of the mountains, and orange groves currently loaded with ripe fruit.

Deía to Soller Beach

Traipsed down the trail between dry stone terraces dotted with the expressive old bark of olive trees. Reached a secluded cove with a gorgeous outlook to the sparkling Mediterranean. After soaking it in, we steadily climbed up from the sea to make a dent on today's 15km hike. Traversed over the mountains and said adiós to the miles of cobblestone paths to finally reach the Port de Soller, a crescent cove dotted with sea view hotels, bars and assorted yachts. What a sight!

Royal Carthusian Monastery 1399-1835, Valdemossa

The monastery, originally a palace and later donated to the monks, was actually made famous by the visit of Frederick Chopin, the Polish composer, and his French mistress, George Sand, the writer of "A Winter in Mallorca". Ironic that an autobiographical travel novel negative about a cold & rainy, unwelcoming Mallorca would drive thousands of visitors each season to the monastery where the couple stayed with her two children in the winter of 1838. Chopin still managed to compose significant pieces here, later finished in Paris. They should have stayed for the Spring when the weather turns delightful.