23 May 2014

The Last Invasion of Britain tapestry

In 1797, French ships captained by an American Colonel, landed in the Fishguard & Goodwick area with over 1,000 French soldiers. While the British forces were summoned, the country was reeling in debt, and the locals were forced to defend themselves from the drunken pillaging invaders until more support arrived. A woman named Jemima Nichols, with a pitchfork, captured 12 French soldiers forming the colorful history of this short-lived engagement. The women in Fishguard, years in advance of the bicentennial in 1997, embarked on an ambitious 50-ft tapestry telling the story. The needlework used only stitches consistent with the day and the detail is formidable. Two small panels are pictured.

Lower Fishguard

A mile or two away from Goodwick lies Lower Fishguard, its harbour commercially used for herring fishing in the 18th and 19th century. The original settlement dates to 1000 AD. Moby Dick, the movie with Gregory Peck in 1956, was filmed here. Under Milk Wood, the 1972 movie from the Dylan Thomas play, was also filmed here and starred Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Peter O'Toole. Apparently, Richard Burton left his mark on the town with many a night at The Ship Inn, a classic 18th century seaside pub. They say Liz filmed her scenes from London.

Fishguard Harbour

Fishguard Harbour, near Goodwick, entered transatlantic trade with the Cunard Line in 1909. Almost three years later in 1912, another ship from the White Star Line, in its maiden voyage, left from Southampton, UK, for New York City. That ship? The RMS Titanic. The First World War ended the Cunard Line route when the Lusitania, a passenger and goods vessel, was torpedoed by a German U-boat, and sunk off the coast of Ireland in 1915. This event hastened the United States' entry into the war. The Cunard Line's other ship was transferred to the port in Southampton, and today Fishguard Harbour primarily services the large ferry boats with Ireland.

Strumble Head

Apparently the night is always clearest before the rain comes in the next morning. We saw no other hikers as we pressed on that morning toward the lighthouse at Strumble Head.

To Pwll Deri Bay

Gorgeous remote hiking as we made our way further up the Pembrokeshire coast. The second image shows the youth hostel perched above the cliffs. Fabulous sunset that evening, and so clear you could see southeastern Ireland.

Wild Welsh pony near Abercastle

20 May 2014

On way to Porthgain

Blue skies were present before the rains came mid-day, in buckets, but only for an hour. This area of the coast is known for its slate quarries which exported the goods originally by boat before it was closed around WWI. The quarries were then flooded with sea water and are now cold deep pools used for kids' scuba diving and coasteering. One boat sunk with slate on board. It was found in more recent times at the bottom of the sea. The slate was used for the roofs of several cottages nearby.

While all signs and information have Welsh and English versions, we are definitely hearing more Welsh spoken and different accents as we approach northern Wales.

19 May 2014

Whitesands Beach

Rounding the point of St David, the Whitesands beach appears under a small coastal rocky mountain. This location is very popular in the summer but the clouds and sprinkles are keeping the crowds away today.

St Non's

This tiny chapel was built in the 1930s with ancient stone to honor the mother and birth of St David. In more recent times, severe rain penetrated through the 2.5 ft walls rendering the building unsuitable for public use. But it is still open for visitors and strikes a dramatic profile along the far western coast for the Pembrokeshire walkers who pass by.

St David's Cathedral

Located in Britain's smallest city, St David in West Wales is home to a religious settlement dating 1,000 years old. The cathedral is named for St David, the first Welsh saint, who was born in the sixth century. The sovereign is also a member of this notable church which has become a pilgrimage destination.

Near Nolton Haven

Coastal vacation home built underground to withstand the winter weather.

St Brides Castle on way to Broad Haven

Passed another impressive castle in a dominant position overlooking St Brides Bay. It looked like another series from BBC. Wikipedia says, "St Bride's Castle, a 19th-century baronial-style country house, which later became a sanatorium called Kensington Hospital, has now been converted into holiday accommodation." So it's available for rent. BYOD. Bring Your Own Dog.