Day Five to Refugio Wallon

Contemplating the last 50m to the pass and the way back to France.

Day Four to Refugio Respomuso, Espana

After climbing 1k ft out of a rocky bowl, Dan contemplates the route down to a series of lakes leading to Spain.

Day Three - Refuge Arremoulit

One of the higher huts on the Haute Route, the refuge was fortified with stone walls for the cold wind that roars up the valley. We napped on the top bunk outside the kitchen, smelling the preparation of duck confit and fresh bread. The bunks were warm and moist with condensation on the walls. Our dinner table included hiking couples from France, Holland, Canada, and USA of course.

Day Two to Refuge de Pombie

Skies cleared this afternoon, and after 7 hours of hiking up and over the high col, the refuge was finally spotted far below us beside a pretty lake. Huge steel bowls of steaming hot soup (puree de pois) and pasta with tomato sauce was served family style. Afterwards, creme brûlée and the much treasured cheese were served. We slept with about 20 other hikers on cots in the big tent to the side of the refuge. It was quite chilly but after adding an extra musty wool blanket, I slept like a zombie.

Day One to Lac d'Ayous, French Pyrenees

The hike up to the refuge next to this beautiful mountain lake was a total rainout combined with snow and sleet. Visibility was minimal and it was a stark welcome to the Pyrenees. Nevertheless we arrived, totally clad and cold in our rain gear, to a warm hut. I quickly stripped off my wet clothes pulling dry replacements from my backpack, oblivious to the people around me. Pierre-Jean checked us in and soon, hot chocolate and vin chaud (warm sweet red wine) were on their way. The hut filled up with mainly French hikers all trying to dry their gear and wet boots in the foyer. The weather was quickly forgotten. We met two nice women, Katherine and Dominique from Bordeaux, one of whom was hiking the entire route from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean to celebrate her 50th b-day. We'd spend the next two nights with a few of the people we met here, quickly forming a community of hikers on the haute route east.

Refugio across Spanish border on GR 11

Tonight we stay in a small ski village called Candanchu at about 5,000 ft. It's very green here in the Pyrenees with rocky peaks and long vistas down wooded valleys.

Bayonne, France

Potted trees guard the bridge access to this Medieval town which prospered from the whaling industry. The spires of Cathedral Ste Marie rise above the skyline.