Skomer Island and Puffins

Took a boat from remote Martins Haven to Skomer Island, one of Britain's four main wildlife research sites. May is the prime month for bluebells, and nesting puffins, and there are some 18,000 thousand! Usually they are extremely difficult to see at sea where they spend most of the year. Other notable birds are manx shearwaters that return each night to avoid predators, razorbills, guillemots lining the ledges, black-backed gulls etc. It's a 5-mile walk around the undulating island; visitors limited due to the ornithology research on site.

Dale to Marloe Sands YHA

Turned the corner to leave Milford Haven Bay and return to the sea coast. Ancient stones and churches hidden in valleys away from Norman invaders appeared. Walked the flat high cliff stops before dropping down to gorgeous and remote Marloes Sands beach at low tide. Stayed at a rural old farmhouse converted to a youth hostel.

Milford Haven to Dale

Geographically, this section is a lot like hiking around San Francisco Bay. And it's all about taking a look at the day's tidal chart. Start the hike a few hours before low tide so you can cross two critical waterways (separated by a 2-hour section) without adding 10 miles to an already 11-mile walk!

Angle to Pembroke

Here's a good example of this section of walk: a 600-year old church beside the green coastal trail hugging Milford Haven Bay. Behind it lies a power plant next to the Pembroke oil refinery now owned by Valero. Still, a lovely 11-mile walk.

The Old Point House, Angle

One of the oldest operating taverns in the UK, The Old Point House was also a former haven for pirates during its 500-year history. In more recent times, a shipwreck was discovered off the rocky point of Angle which contained in its hold 100-year old whiskey, intact. We stayed here for the night in a small room above the pub. Fresh seafood prepared by the proprietor (a chef), and as soon as the boiler kicked in, the room warmed up and the medieval drafts cleared away.

Freshwater West to Angle

Limestone turned to sandstone on the cliffs outside the desolate surfing beach of Freshwater West. Fortunately the winds have returned to a more normal speed and a high pressure system is coming in. Great day for walking.

Excursion to Pembroke Castle

Due to the high winds, the day was better spent on the grounds of Pembroke Castle at the annual Spring Faire. Falconry displays and theater groups brought the extensive history of the English castle alive from King Henry II to a long history of monarchs and others who controlled the castle and surrounding lands. Pictured below are a medieval monk, a swordsman, and a Genoese mercenary with a cross-bow from the 16th century.

Tenby to Freshwater East

Limestone cliffs soar up from the sea. Gale force winds are blowing us around, but fortunately, toward the land and not over the cliff. Walking on the level cliff tops would be enjoyable if not for the strong winds. Eventually we diverted to a path more inland for safety.

Amroth to Tenby

Flat walk along disused railway turned to undulating above the verdant coastal fields and then through a coastal forest before arriving in the picturesque village of Tenby.

Starting Point, Amroth

The lightweight backpacks are ready to go. The only indulgence is one thin paperback for the two-week walk.