Mexico City Centro Historico

A walking tour brought us up to speed on the founding of Mexico City ("CDMX") as the city-state of the Mexica's Tenochtitlan. Originally built on an expanded island in the middle of a lake, the city was quite grand with palaces and temples amidst a network of canals. In the Templo Mayor 13th century ruins next to the cathedral, there is evidence of human sacrifice in the mythology and practices of the Aztecs, a fierce warrior group. 

In the 1500s, Hernan Cortés and the Spanish conquerors, with the help of indigenous groups seeking power themselves, defeated the Aztecs and the city was razed. The lakebed was drained to build out the city, a decision that has consequences today for sinking ground and water shortages amidst antiquated plumbing. 

At an elevation of 7,349 ft, Mexico City is estimated to be sinking up to 20 inches a year in some places. The metropolitan cathedral, built by the Spanish on top of ancient Aztec ruins, and other buildings downtown are visibly uneven. Frequent earthquakes and a nearby active volcano create other geographic risks. 

Yet CDMX area is home to 22 million people. The downtown has been revitalized and its zocálo has hosted popular concerts and events as the downtown with its national palace, historic buildings, and wide boulevards handle a large volume of pedestrians.

Nearby is the Palacio des Belles Artes whose second floor exhibits many famous murals including Diego Rivera's "Man, Controller of the Universe". It was first commissioned for Rockefeller Center but when Diego Rivera refused to paint out Lenin's face for its capitalistic patron, it was destroyed and recommissioned in Mexico City.

Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo Home, Coyoacán

In the suburbs of Mexico City, Casa Azul, provides a uniquely personal insight into Frida and Diego, who purchased the house from the Kahlo family. No wonder it is a top attraction for art lovers in Mexico City.

One can visibly see the way Frida dealt with tragic health issues throughout her life. She frequently wore the traditional dress of her mother’s family from Oaxaca. Its distinctive style also hid her body brace due to polio at a young age. In her teens, she was in a bus accident that impaled her. With chronic pain, she said that art saved her and proved her resilience and fight. Toward the end of her life, she painted from her bed with the use of a mirror.

Despite personal challenges, she and Diego, an artistic prodigy, had a steamy relationship of love and affairs during the volatile era of global politics in Mexico City. 

Leon Trotsky and his wife moved to Mexico City in exile and resided temporarily with the Rivera's. Leon and Frida became close with shared devotion to Marxism amidst radical politics and passion for revolution. Frida painted "Two Fridas, a double self-portrait 1939, after she found out about Diego's affair with her sister with whom she was close. Leon Trotsky was assassinated by ice axe in his home just blocks from Casa Azul on the orders of Stalin in 1940. 

The neighborhood of Coyoacán is charming to walk around. Highly recommend La Casa de los Tacos on the main street in town for its freshly grilled tortillas with shrimp and guacamole.